Anne-Sofie Back presented its A/W 2010 collection in Shanghai last week with a runway show. I was surprised to hear about such a directional label choosing to show in Shanghai, which despite its cosmopolitan status, still has a long way to go in developing its fashion industry and catching up with Hong Kong. Still, I was happy to hear of such a familiar and well-loved name making a presence in my home away from home.
Both pieces from the more basic/separates-heavy Back by Ann-Sofie Back line and the main line were presented. I was particularly taken with the sheer flowing dresses (as per usual); and it was good to see that the slashing and shredding techniques seen in her A/W 2009 collection were still in play here. The loose, drapey fabrics prominently featured in collection, which was inspired by Second Life can be seen as a metaphorical interpretation of the perpetually in-flux and pre-assembled appearances, identities and lives of the Second Life characters. For example, many pieces (like the dress seen above) had design features that exaggerated the musculature of the human body, in correlation with Second Life characters’ often over-enhanced, big-muscled and large-breasted avatars.
Sorry for not updating- I haven’t dropped off the face of the earth. I moved from New York to Shanghai for study abroad.
It’s been pretty crazy indeed…starting a new life in China takes some getting used to, and I’m not sure I’m quite there yet. I definitely suffered from culture shock the first few weeks. Which manifested itself not only emotionally, but physically. (I was sick and bedridden for a whole month!)
I feel very behind on fashion- most blog hosting sites (Blogspot, WordPress, etc.) are banned in China, which makes it a pain and at times impossible to keep up with it all. At the same time, this restriction has been quite liberating.
For once, I feel truly liberated from socially-driven aesthetic obligations, of the nagging urge to post about stuff only because I’ll fall behind if I can’t keep up with what’s new. It’s funny what a change of location can accomplish..
I was worried about feeling uninspired and there being a lack of cool stuff to write about in Shanghai but I just might be proved wrong.
-Shanghai is hosting the “Swedish Fashion – Exploring a New Identity” exhibit this spring, featuring Ann-Sofie Back, Burfitt, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair and other favorites. I will attend and report back!
-There are tons of wholesale fashion markets here and beyond the obvious fake designer bags, I’ve spotted fake Vivienne Westwood, Ann Demeulemeester, Margiela, Limi Feu, Yohji, etc. It’s hilarious and I must admit I have been tempted…will try to take some stealth snaps.
-As for the real stuff, I’ve checked out the very well curated Hong Kong based I.T. (so much Fall Comme!) and the Joyce Warehouse outlet where I spotted Lanvin neon leopard print purses and bejeweled necklaces, killer Rick Owens heels and fin wedges and slinky RO tops, crystal encrusted Ann Demeulemeester, gigantic Givenchy Nightingale totes, and racks of Dries Van Noten (including those amazing beaded sandals) Number (N)ine’s last collection, and many other to-die-for pieces, all marked down. Sadly, even with the discounts, I haven’t broken down and indulged. Taxes on luxury import items in China are ridiculously high.
-I’ve been pretty good, and really haven’t bought anything worth noting. Trying to be responsible and save funds for the ultimate shopping city…Tokyo! I’m going there in July, and already have a huge list of spots to hit up. I’ll post about that next time.
Pardon the hiatus, I’m working hard to resume posting on a regular basis..
Vampires have been an integral part of our cultural landscape for a while now, whether through film, TV or literature, and lately I’ve noticed how certain components of their mythos have been popping up in fashion.
While Ann-Sofie Back’s fall 2009 collection was not specifically inspired by vampires, it took direction from the campy dregs of Americana found in B horror movies (Stephen King’s Carrie in particular).
I’m glad that someone attempted create a collection encapsulating teen ennui, without resorting once again to misappropriating youth subculture.
Young, innocence waiting to be corrupted: collegiate jackets, poufy white dresses
Adolescent rage (the most powerful kind): the shredded and slashed offerings
Dreamlike mysticism: dangling dreamcatchers
The violence of the garments are tempered by the tongue in cheek attitude of pieces like the intarsia knit sweaters, and those amazing sunglasses.
It’s the ghastly visages, bruised lips and sunken, startling pale and bloodshot eyes that immediately bring to mind the creatures of the night
Delfina Delettrez’s stunning mouth…piece (?) crafted out of precious gems.
To top it all off, how about some of Karen Walker’s protective eyewear?
Ann-Sofie Back’s aviators shaped like dripping blood are killing me in the best way possible:
I’ve always been entranced by the image of the vampire- if I were milky pale, lithe and somber enough, you can be sure I would be accentuating those those features.
In the mean time, us mortals can achieve the look on the exterior. But that last thing we want is a literal interpretation, a costume. Aim for subtly unsettling accents that will make the person standing next to you blink and take a second glance instead of roll their eyes.