in love with an apparition
To this day, I mourn the end the refined, imaginative and innovative designs of the original Helmut Lang line.
Now, a pale and begrudgingly minimalist rendition exists as completely transformed contemporary brand helmed by (of all people) the creators of the Habitual denim line, and is owned by Link Theory Holdings of Japan, which also operates Theory (!)
One season that struck me in particular dates back to later in his career.
The Spring/Summer ’04 collection, also known as “the dragonfly” collection featured for the most part- monochromatic bandage strapped and layered separates, with the exception of several startling color-shot dresses that are some of my favorite pieces of all time.
And don’t forget about the shoes:
According to Lang, the collection was meant to evoke “a feeling of summer — the lightness, the different textures and the colors”.
The glowing iridescent fabrics adorning otherwise basic jersey templates indeed recall the shimmer and slick translucence of dragonfly wings. There is an otherworldly quality the dresses that make them both unsettling and fragile. Yet this fragility is tempered by the severity and contemporaneity of the footwear.